Tuesday, August 25, 2020

a weekend along the cabot trail


We decided with the arrival of August, and travel restrictions still in effect for us on the East Coast, that we would try to make the most of our time and do a few long weekends within our "Atlantic Bubble". Currently we are free to travel around all four Maritime provinces freely, and really, can we even complain? So we packed our bags, booked a couple last minute rooms, and made our way up to the Highlands. I had thrown in something light to read, but at the last minute, I decided to check the library for something a little more appropriate for the trip. I looked up lists of romantic, historical fiction that took place in Scotland, and settled on The Winter Sea by Susanna Kearsley. It was perfect! Having just devoured all of Kate Morton's books, this was just what I was looking for. Not too romantic but still a good love story, a little poetic, gorgeous setting... There's something so lovely about reading a story that's set in a place similar to the book you're loosing yourself in. In this case, the foggy days, the coastlines, the salty air, they just made a good book all the more wonderful.

As for packing, I couldn't believe how many messages I got about packing. Apparently, many of you are very heavy packers! I won't go into much detail, but I really do try hard to pack lightly when we're away. Mainly, because it's hard enough to keep track of even minimal things for six of us.

Essentially, I pack a few outfits according to how we'll be spending our time.
At the Beach - my bathing suit, my cover up, a sweater, a magazine and my favourite Beauty Counter scrub for after. I also pack my beach bag, which is what I use to hold my camera bag, my purse, snacks, book etc...while we're driving.
Out and About - a couple casual dresses, my white sneakers, my backpack which doubles as a camera/diaper bag/purse when we're out sightseeing and maybe a cardigan if it's cooler.
Something a Little More - If I need something a little nicer, say for a dinner out or something, then I just pack a couple accessories to make one of the dresses more special - a pair of sandals, a clutch and some statement piece of jewelry goes a long way.

I also keep my toiletries to a bare minimum. This is probably easier for someone who typically doesn't wear makeup, or spend much time on their hair, but honestly, just the basics.


So our trip! The Cabot Trail is a coastal route that runs along the ocean's edge, winding through the Cape Breton Highlands. I never knew we had mountains and a coastline this stunning until we did the trail a few years ago. There are so many viewpoints along the drive where you can get out and take in the views. At times you're climbing steep mountain edges, the oceans swirling below. Later you're making your way through the valleys, hikers dotting the ridges above on the Skyline Trail. There are fishing villages along the way, beaches to get out and explore, and quaint little fishing harbours to stop and grab a bite to eat. The entire trail can be done in a day, but we broke it up into two. That way we could take our time exploring the first day, and the second, we could spend the whole morning at the beach, leaving us a shorter drive home. We left in the early evening and arrived at our motel in Baddeck at bedtime. It's a good starting point for the trail, so it meant we could get up in the morning, and begin our drive.



It's funny because as you begin the first bit, the drive seems so beautiful, and it is, but once you're halfway around, the beginning seems like nothing.


Much of the drive is actually part of the Cape Breton Highlands National Park. There's a great variety of places to stay if you wanted to spend the night. The first time we did it, we stayed in a glorified shelter at the edge of a cliff. The shower was as cold as the ocean and the only place around for a bite to eat was the small chowder hut on the property. This time around, we booked a room in the lodge at the Glenora Distillery in the mountains. To keep things enjoyable for the kids, we made a few stops along the way where we could get out and explore.


Our first stop was at Ingonish Beach. We got out, stretched out legs, and walked the beach for a bit, the boys running up and down, darting the waves, and inevitably, left a bit salty and covered in sand.



After tiring ourselves out at the beach, we stopped at Salty Roses and the Periwinkle Cafe. I would have loved to sit and read with my coffee, watching the fog roll into the bay below. It was so quintessentially East Coast - a little weathered, cheerful and a little eclectic.


I enjoyed driving into the harbours, seeing the boats docked and the lobster traps scattered about. The houses are scattered around the hillsides of the bay, many colourful, with a few church steeples standing out prominently.



For lunch, we stopped at the famous Chowder House in Neil's Harbour.


This really was the best bowl of seafood chowder I've had since arriving. It wasn't thick, but rather smooth, with butter that pooled at the surface and a generous amount of fresh seafood. And the biscuit they serve with it was warm and slightly sweet. Just stop.




This is probably the most popular view point - the poster really for the Cabot Trail.


We also stopped in Margaree Harbour on the way, but I've saved that for another post. We discovered, I think, my favourite house from the trip.




This was our view from our porch at the lodge in the Highlands. It was just beautiful. We can't wait to comeback in the fall, when the leaves change.


The next morning was spent at Inverness Beach. It was windy and the waves were perfect.



From there we made our way home. We picked up lunch and brought it to a little picnic area overlooking the water.




And then, just because we could, we stopped at Caribou Provincial Park for one last dip in ocean. I walked the beach while the littler ones played in the tide pools. We discovered that this particular beach had the best beach combing, particularly, the largest clam shells we've found yet.


We packed up one last time, cleaned as much sand off of us as we could, and headed home as the sun set.

We're so thankful to have such a beautiful place to explore that's so relatively close. It's the perfect distance for a long weekend away. Next time, when the weather is cooler and the leaves have turned, we're going to book a cabin in the highlands to enjoy for a few days. Not to drive, but just to stay, and enjoy the highlands.

It's no wonder the Cabot Trail is shortlisted for one of the most beautiful coastal drives in the world. If you ever make your way to Nova Scotia, I highly recommend taking a couple days to experience it. 

3 comments:

  1. Wow, I had never heard of this Cabot Trail, it is beautiful! I will have to put this on my list.

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