thanksgiving week in the highlands - a trip around the cabot trail

We are often asked, as fairly green Nova Scotians still, what we love about this place we call home. There are many answers that come to mind, but one that I feel many people aren't aware of, is how beautifully diverse the landscape of this province is. There are parts that feel so classically New England-like, where the coastline here seems to blend seemlessly with those across the waters belonging to Maine. There's the fertile Valley that runs between the mountains, parallel to the Bay, a patchwork of farmland, fruit trees and vines.

And then there are the Highlands.

It's as though the last of Scottish blood flowing through me is drawn to this place. As though part of me knows the hills of a home from generations past lie just beyond the horizon. The fog that rises from the lochs there, rolls across waves and settles on the hills here. The same salty waters come swirling in with the tides at the base of each cliff along coastline. The highlands leave me feeling like I've returned home.

When Ryan's family decided to come and spend Thanksgiving here, we wanted to make it extra special, so we decided to head up to Cape Breton for a few days away together. We booked a cottage right on the water in Chéticamp, with the ocean to the front and the mountains behind. We took our time heading up, stopping to stretch our legs in Margaree Harbour. We follow the sign for Sandy Bathing Beach, and parked at the bottom of the dunes. We wound our way up through the roses well past their bloom, and stood at the lighthouse steps overlooking the harbour below. An old, white farmhouse sits at the top of the hill, flanked by two lighthouses. Just beyond the tall dune lies Margaree Harbour Beach.

When you climb up the dune, you smell the water and hear the waves before you can even see the beach. 

This is the view from our cottage. We could watch the sun rise behind the mountains from the back and see the sun sink below the horizon in the front.

If you've never heard of the Cabot Trail before, it's Canada's version of California's Highway 1. Honestly, before driving it, I didn't realize our East Coast had mountains like this. You wind along the coast, hugging the edge, climbing the mountains and descending down into the valleys. Lookoffs line the road at every beautiful vista so you can get out and take in the views.

 

Add the beauty of the changing leaves and it's a grand tour.

 

Not to mention those gorgeous October skies.

We kept things easy and usually ate out, or we picked a charcuterie and sipped wine at dusk.

On our way home we showed them Inverness Beach - one of our favourite beaches in Nova Scotia. It was grey and moody, but it didn't stop us from enjoying a stroll on the beach in the drizzling rain.

There are so many other places we stopped - Ingonish Beach and Neil's Harbour are other favourites. And if you're really adventurous, go all the way out to Meat Cove.

Whatever you do, just give yourself plenty of time to stop. It's the kind of drive that on paper is three or four hours, but will end up taking you the entire day. But trust me, you won't mind one bit.

an autumn afternoon in niagara on the lake

 

Over the holiday weekend, before we made our way to our Thanksgiving celebrations, we went for an afternoon drive along the parkway to Niagara on the Lake. It's always a pretty town, but it's especially charming in the fall, when the leaves are all turning.

I started at the park, where I left Ryan and the boys to play, and slowly made my way up and down the main street. Usually I walk all the blocks around this main street, and down to the water, but this short distance walk was enough for me for one day.

The leaves weren't quite at their peak, but there was plenty of colour to enjoy, especially with the gardens still looking so stunning.

Annual Fall Drive

Each year, around the first day of Autumn, my cousin and I take our annual Fall Drive. We've been doing it for years - ever since I got my first car. The first stop is always to pick up a Pumpkin Spice Latte from Starbucks, and usually includes local craft shows, a few farm stands to pick up gourds and pumpkins and a tour through the beautiful countryside to enjoy the changing leaves.

This year we had a few specific places we wanted to stop.

Garrison Village in Niagara on the Lake was our first destination. Their weekly farmer's market included a small antique sale and I knew I'd find a few good treasures. While there, we came upon a shop called Refuge. I had never shopped it before and I was so excited to find it! It's a beautiful collection of vintage finds, and really is a shop where you could find just about anything for just about anyone. 

After that, we made our way to 13th Street Winery where they were hosting a Handmade Market. 

It was a lovely day.

Really, it's Fall in a cup.

As you can see, there were so many great finds!

These donuts were from Willow Cakes and Pastry in Niagara on the Lake. I picked the second from the right, on the top. Are you ready for what it was?

It was covered in caramel with Toblerone bar on top, and filled with caramel cream cheese filling.

It was to die for.

Here's a little peak into Refuge. Be sure to stop by when you are in the area and browse her wonderful collection.

And finally 13th Street Winery. It's so clean and simple and it reminds me of a perfect modern farmhouse. It was a great location for this Fall's Handmade Market.

And there was wine... And butter tarts in their bakery.

And food trucks!